Full Crimp Vs Half Crimp Vs Open Hand, Full crimp is the strongest grip, but puts a lot of pressure on the A2, A3 and A4 pulleys, whereas the half crimp puts less pressure on A2 but still some on A4 and A3. The fact that the thumb is on top doesn't change all that much to the forces at play and load on the pulleys, as shown by several studies. The catch is that on really hard moves it won’t provide as much traction or stability on edges as the full or half-crimp. If you’re doing 5 sets of hangs, maybe do 2 open hand and 3 half crimp, changing the weight to whatever you need it to be. Just to add to the conversation, open hand vs half crimp is a lot about the body position and how you approach each hold. I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice regarding the 3 above grip types (full crimp, half crimp, open hand), and most importantly, how they differentiate in terms of stressing the tendons/pulleys in the hand/fingers. Edit: meant to say half crimp, said full Discrepancy in crimp strength open hand vs. Open hand puts very little strain on the pulleys, but is a little tricker to master. open hand and half crimp Open Hand Grip Not sure when to crimp and when to open hand? Learn the difference between climbing's three main grip positions and why it matters for your fingers. Indoor and competition climbers are more often best in the open crimp position. You can train each grip type: open-hand crimp, half-crimp, and full-crimp. Table of Contents Introduction To Crimping In Climbing Fundamentals Of Crimping And Crimp Types Classification And Description Of Advantages: The half crimp provides a balance between strength and strain on the fingers, making it somewhat safer than the full crimp for prolonged use. Feb 2, 2025 · According to seasoned climbers, the half crimp has a lesser risk of hurting your finger joints and tendons than the full crimp grip. Jan 19, 2021 · Four-fingers Open-hand The four-fingers open-hand position is an excellent compromise between efficiency and power. Edit: to answer the grip types to train question a bit further. The best and most advanced climbers are the ones mastering all three positions. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Crimp, open hand, and drag grips change tendon path, joint angles, pulley stress, and load distribution. Mar 2, 2026 · This guide breaks down open-hand, half-crimp, and full-crimp techniques, showing you exactly when and how to use each grip type while preventing the A2 pulley strains that sideline ambitious climbers for months. Full crimp vs half crimp vs completely open hand. Hangboarding, also known as ‘fingerboarding,’ is the best way to train your crimp strength once you’ve developed your pulleys and tendons more. I'm pretty new to climbing, I've been at it for a few months, mostly bouldering in the V3-4 neighbourhood of difficulty. I plan on suplementing this with full crimp hangs (mainly density) on small edges and open hand pocket training. p9e, bmbag, 11qq, nc7hi, b3, bz, jpr8s, xvmqms, rpdlyo, xhgp, \